Osorezan: The Mythical Entrance to Hell

At the end of July, we got to check off another box on our "To-See" list here in Japan. One of the popular tourist locations is the Bodaiji Temple and thermal features in the sacred Buddhist area known as Osorezan. It's located up in the center of the hatchet-shaped peninsula north of Misawa. So we grabbed some snacks, an atlas and the audio book we were working through, and drove up the coast.

One of the mysteries of the drive up Shimokita Peninsula is all of the signs that hang from the lamp posts counting down the kilometers until some landmark that has something to do with garden gnomes. On our last trip we figured out what building the signs were pointing to, but it was closed. This time, it was wide open, though, so we took a slight detour to explore the gnome building. I'm not sure what we were expecting - maybe a museum or a reconstruction of a gnome village. Turns out it was sort of a children's learning center set up near the nuclear plant up there. Weird. But it did have some displays of gnome statues and a playhouse fashioned after a fairytale cottage where gnomes might live. We took a couple minutes to gawk at the oddity and try some of the interactive features including fishing for stuffed sealife. But then it was time to get back on the road.

Apparently we chose the one week a year when Osorezan is packed to explore its mysteries. I was a little disappointed that I couldn't get as close to some of the structures as I would have liked to, out of a fear of offending the Buddhists who were there to pray. That's ok, though. It was a really creepy place so we were not overly eager to linger.

Why was it creepy you ask? Apparently the surrounding area resembles descriptions of Buddhist hell and paradise, including eight peaks and a river that souls must cross on their way to the afterlife. The area is rich in volcanic activity and smells strongly of sulfur. Cracks and pools bubble up and blow hot water. The ground is gray and covered in sharp volcanic rocks piled into little mounds that supposedly symbolize places where souls are trying to build bridges over the river. Among those trying to cross the river are the souls of dead children and unborn babies. Apparently the pebbles are offerings from their parents to help them make their way into paradise. During the festival we stumbled upon, mourning parents come to consult with blind mediums in hopes of communicating with lost loved ones. They place pinwheels at the base of guardian statues to protect them from demons. It was unreal. Truly unique experience... not one I want to replicate.

The one cool thing that I was glad we found was an iconic red Japanese bridge for a family pic!

On the way home we indulged in some more tofu donuts! Yummy!!! Over all, it was a fun excursion. Time spent with the hubby is alway worth it!